Deck Ledger Boards - what you don't know could hurt you

It is not uncommon for any residence (single or multi-family) to take advantage of its adjacent outdoor spaces by means of a porch or deck.  They're a great way for building occupants to extend the living quarters outside for use in lounging, entertaining, cooking, dining, etc - the list goes on.  As Spring approaches and construction or reconstruction of these outdoor structures begins to rise, there is a far-too-common practice among the deck/porch-building industry that is improperly executed and could lead to failure of a deck and possibly worse... personal injury or death.  My main objective in approaching any design problem is life-safety - even in a project as seemingly rudimentary as deck design.  There is no project too small for careful thought and proper design to preserve the health, safety, and welfare of the general public, and I hold this true with deck ledger design.  The mis-usage I'm describing is the attachment of ledger boards to brick or masonry veneer on homes built circa the mid-1950s and beyond, primarily in suburban areas and subdivisions.  

Generations ago, buildings were built with real masonry bearing walls on the exterior, for fire-resistance, longevity, strength, and low-maintenance.  However, advancements in knowledge of seismic and wind activity have led to less un-reinforced brick being used for structural walls, and the onset of the use of brick or masonry veneers as an outer skin to the home, with a wood or metal-stud backup providing the real structural strength within.  Again, this technique is especially prevalent in today's new residential construction.  With the older buildings found mainly in more densely-populated, older urban neighborhoods, their multi-layer masonry walls could be used for attaching those deck ledgers directly, with the proper method of anchorage, of course.  However, the single-layer veneers are highly inadequate for supporting a deck ledger, as they are non-structural and used only as a barrier of weather protection from the underlying structure, in lieu of siding for example.  A deck ledger board is a long board set against the house and used to attach the main joists of the deck with hangers; therefore, they form a major structural component of the deck as a whole.

If you're in a home or apartment building where the walls are truly masonry or if you simply have siding over the stud wall, then this article isn't meant for your project, as those substrates are adequate for direct-ledger-attachment.  However, if you are building a deck onto a home with masonry veneer as an aesthetic "skin", than I consider this to be required reading.  Those veneers are not designed nor are they built for ledger attachment.  Meaning that bolting the ledger board solely to this veneer and letting that be the main support against the wall is a no-no.  The ledger could pull away from the wall and take a large chunk of the masonry with it, because they are not properly tied back to resist such force.  Also, one layer of brick veneer is not adequate to support the weight of a fully furnished and occupied deck - the brick can compress and be crushed by those loads causing catastrophic failure.  You also cannot simply set a bolt through the veneer and tie it back to the main structure beyond because this stand-out of the bolt through a non-structural material is too great and could cause the bolts to bend and break, or fail in one of the other aforementioned ways.

The best methods for supporting a deck in this condition are to either find a spot of easily exposed concrete foundation or wood structure to which a ledger can be set directly against and thoroughly bolted, or (the main focus of this article) to build the deck "free-standing" with only minor anchorage to the brick veneer to keep it from drifting.  In lieu of a ledger board attached to the house to carry a significant portion of the deck load, you would have a beam similar to that at the outer edge of the deck, but situated a few feet away from the exterior wall so that the edge against the house is actually cantilevered.  Then that edge can be anchored to the veneer to resist minor shifting, but nothing more.  This is the method recommended by the American Wood Council (AWC) and should be put into practice by all design professionals (architects, engineers, etc) and deck builders, carpenters and contractors, as well as enforced strictly by the governing bodies within every municipality.

For further information on proper deck construction:  http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

LED Lighting - the future is now

I'm sure by now everyone has heard of L.E.D. lighting as it's quickly becoming an increasingly available and popular alternative to the standard "incandescent" light bulbs of the past 100+ years.  We're seeing a lot of different types pop up and now we're even being required and/or rewarded to use them in building projects.

Without being over-technical, some of the basics of L.E.D. lighting are as such.  LED stands for "light-emitting diode" and the way it works , in the simplest of terms' is that electrical current is passed through a semiconductor die (like a filament) where it is converted to luminescence, and thus... "let there be light".  In order to be effective for space lighting, a lot of tiny LEDs need to be grouped together in one fixture to provide adequate lighting output since they're relatively weak on their own, and have thus been manufactured as such.  Although they have been used for about 50 years for lighting signage, electronic indicators, etc, they have been developed more recently to fit into our screw-in type household lighting fixtures.

The biggest advantages to LEDs over incandescent are obviously related to lifespan and energy consumption.   They can last 25-50 times longer than an incandescent and use far less energy, both of which can be realized monetarily in replacement costs and energy bills.  We're probably more familiar with the CFLs (or compact fluorescent - the "curly", helical bulbs) that have been promoted as a similarly efficient alternate to incandescent, but LED even holds a few advantages over them.  First, CFLs take a few minutes to "heat up" and achieve full brightness after being first switched on after a short period of time.  LEDs have the ability to heat up instantly and provide 100% luminescence immediately.  Also, CFLs have been known to have their internal ballasts overheat and even catch fire in rare cases, mostly from misuse, but a safety concern nonetheless.  LEDs do also produce heat due to electrical resistance, but the better quality products are equipped with a built-in heat-sink to absorb the heat and shut down the device before it becomes a danger, making them safer.  Further, CFLs can last longer than incandescent, but still pale in comparison to the longevity of LEDs.  LEDs are also available in varying color temperatures, which basically help eliminate that cold "blue" or "white" tone and can provide a warmer "yellow" light, if so desired.

If you weren't already convinced, there are 2 more credible reasons to choose LED bulbs.  One is that there are incentive programs offered for purchasing this lighting type - either by the local power utility (ComEd in Metro Chicago), the state, or sometimes even on a federal tax level.  These can be researched further at www.energystar.gov or other deeper internet research.  Also, the current building codes are written to require that 75% of light fixtures in any residential construction project be of a "high-efficacy" type, which LEDs would satisfy.  This is a state of Illinois mandate, known currently and adopted as the 2012 International Energy Conservation Code, so applies all across the state and is checked heavily by local municipal enforcement authorities.

One minor drawback to LEDs is their initial cost, which can seem quite high.  But when considering the lack of replacement cost with other types (one bulb can last longer than a standard 30-year home mortgage, depending on usage), it is a worthy investment - especially for recessed lighting and other areas where changing a bulb is a hassle (e.g. over a staircase), and considering any reimbursements as well.  They can be purchased at your typical hardware store or discount department stores, but I have found a good resource for quality products from a local wholesaler at www.goledbulbs.com, run by a local electrician.  Feel free to contact cj architects for further info!

"Its obvious that we don't know one millionth of one percent about anything"
~Thomas Alva Edison

Pulling Permits - the necessary "evil"

Often in my residential work I come across times when a homeowner or contractor questions the need for pulling a permit for their project(s).  Sometimes there is an inherent understanding of the value and necessity, but others want to bypass the process to save time and money.  I strongly advise against this side-stepping and obviously recommend and condone pulling a permit.  I do realize that hiring an architect, paying permit fees, and waiting for permits to be issued cost time and money, but in the long run making this small initial investment (when compared to the project whole) can eliminate extra time and money spent in mistakes, costly changes, code violations/citations, and even being court-ordered to pay to remove the non-permitted construction.

Regardless of the size of the project (decks, to basements, to additions, to new construction) there are code implications - in order to preserve life-safety and the well being of the end users.  Architects who prepare plans for these types of projects are (or should be) well versed in the code requirements and impact on the overall design and construction.  An architect should always be consulted to see how the desires of the project at hand will be affected by these criteria.  Not doing so could lead to misunderstandings, misinterpretations, and negative progress to even (especially) the simplest of projects.

In some very rare cases (amongst very few municipalities) an architect's seal is not required for submitting permit applications or even drawings.  However, it is still a good idea to have a licensed architect prepare the plans so that there is some measured level of competency in their creation with regard to code compliance and even thoughtful design.  This is by no means a suggestion not to have a collaboration between all parties involved (owners, contractors, etc), but rather just to have a physical set of documents that are pulled together as a result of a committee of ideals and then reviewed and distributed for a consistent record of thoughts.  These can also be used to keep everyone informed and have confidence in "apples-to-apples" comparisons of quotes, etc.  

But most importantly, the architect-prepared plans should have the basis of code compliance to get through the permit approval relatively painlessly and with an "Approval" stamp that was earned with little intervention or sacrifice to the design.  The municipality governing plan review will know the code well or will contract an entity that does.  If there are errors in the design they will inform applicants of the deficiencies, but will not necessarily advise on how to correct them.  That's where having an equal expert in your corner will help guide the design through this phase and hopefully at that point only minor plan adjustments will be necessary.

So in summary, always pull permits when required to do so, and contact your local architect for advice, counsel, and to make use of their expertise as an advocate for you, your project, and everyone's goal of safety and sustainability.  With proper planning from the inception of the project with regard to time and cost budgeting, the permit process can fit seamlessly into your schedule and can minimize future unwarranted headaches.

Rule of Threes

Architecture is not all about pretty pictures and drawing.  A lot of the job is dedicated to providing a full range of services.  There is pre-design where an architect can be involved in the project's site selection, programming, and budgeting.  Then there are the two following phases which are most common and recognizable, especially within CJ Architects' realm of projects:  Design and Construction Documentation Phases, which include the processes of creating the structure theory and translating those ideals onto paper for contractors and municipal plan reviewers to understand in our universal "language".  The final phases are Construction Administration and Closeout, where the building is under construction and the Architect is involved with observing the Work and procuring ongoing documentation, and then the Substantial Completion, Quality Assurance, and Final Billing.

However, before the Construction phase comes the Bidding and Negotiation Phase.  In this phase, the Architect can assist project owners and clients with the contractor selection process.  The first step is usually soliciting the bids.  The client may come into the project with a list of prospective contractors, or the Architect can refer some of their own resources based on past experiences.  In some rare cases, the list of contractors can come from other sources or be pre-generated by a third-party, including contractors who pre-qualify as Disadvantaged Business Enterprises... usually for government and civic projects and some other publicly funded work.  Usually with our type and scale of work, the client usually comes along with one or two prospective contractors and we provide another one or two for consideration.

The rule of threes that this post refers to is that we always encourage clients to at least consider three contractors for bidding their projects - regardless of size or scope.  This helps establish a finite range of prices and expectations.  The project owner can compare three bids and feel confident with the conciseness of their results.  We always recommend the at-least-three-bid rule for ALL subcontractors as well, representing each trade.  A general rule of thumb is that if you use three bidders, you should select the one in the middle, but this is by no means a hard and fast rule and each individual bid should be examined closely for accuracy and thoroughness.  It is just an assumption that the one in the middle will be the most reasonable while including all aspects of the project, whereas the high bidder may just be too expensive or is adding or misunderstanding things and the low-bidder may be missing details or just undercutting the competition.  If a bid comes back on the extreme end of high OR low, it is best to contact that bidder and go over the project and their bid together to make sure you're on the same page.

Obviously we will also always recommend that a project owner have a good set of proper working drawings before soliciting all three bids.  It's never a bad idea to speak to a contractor first to get a ballpark estimate, and we actually get plenty of work and referrals form our contractors (so we don't want to bite the hand that feeds us).  However, this should just be a budgetary exercise and not a strict proposal submission.  The project scope can change so rampantly from inception through the architectural process that those numbers can be null and void once hammer and nails are really ready to be implemented.  Plus, after drawings are developed the client will be getting a more apples-to-apples comparison from their three or more contractors because they're all bidding off the same set of criteria.  Bidders will appreciate this whole process as they realize their valuable time is not being wasted - but, again, most of them would be happy to help see the project through from start to finish and that adds a lot to the comfort level in the relationship, which is another key factor in proper contractor selection.

Goings On

So this is a typical slow time of year for cj architects. What I've found is that starting right around Thanksgiving and running through the few weeks following the New Year, clients are rarely interested in pursuing new design projects or even concentrating on existing ones. It seems there is a "shut-down" in this period where most everyone (including myself, admittedly) is distracted and loses focus for a bit. The most obvious reason is the holiday lull where folks are visiting with family and friends, entertaining, short on cash, etc, etc. Also, I attribute this to the weather - the gloominess of winter and fear of the snow/ice effect on construction, commuting, and feeling good. 

Things start to pop back up right around now, early-to-mid February. I think the prospect of warmer weather and the knowledge of time-lag for the permitting and bidding processes gets potential and current clients motivated. They seem to want to get design projects underway in time for that first Spring thaw where digging and opening-up of walls can occur without much issue. I like this time of year. It starts to get crazy and gets me back into the swing of things. It's a good time to release all of those creative juices that have been stored up over the winter and it gives me a lot of confidence about the direction the year is going. 

Of course not the entire Winter season is spent thumb-twiddling. There are always usually loose-ends to tie up on existing projects, small tidbits here and there to pass the time, and the occasional under-construction project where the design is complete and construction is in full swing. I find that unlike design-time, clients will focus on projects during the heavy construction phase through the winter/holidays because there is some momentum and a light at the end of the tunnel. 

The photos above reference one such project. These are recent pictures taken of a new home construction in Schaumburg. The exterior was completed int he Fall allowing for the interior to be weather-tight for rough-in and drywall to continue over the winter in a space that will retain the adequate heating level to do so. This is a sweet project, because cj architects was virtually given carte blanche on design. The front entry opens up to an large 2-story hall/vestibule open front to back with a curved, central grand staircase. This is coupled with several other architectural features that will make this home one of the more prominent designs in the cj architects portfolio... 

It's experiences like going through homes like these in this phase that make the slow time of the year bearable.

Code

One of the biggest challenges I face as an architect is to explain or educate the client on the building code effect and how it determines what we can, cannot, or must do within our design to meet it.

A lot of times clients will ask me specific code questions. Some things are that objectively written in any code, and can be answered on the spot. However, some things are a factor of the size, use, and materials of the building and thus a little bit more time and effort must be given to actual code research to arrive at a solution. It is difficult to not only get the client to understand this process, but also to be allowed to begin it while collecting compensation for doing it. I actually refuse to memorize any of these tabulated, calculated portions of the code, because it is not worth getting it wrong on the spot without having it in front of you to confirm the requirement. The consequences of an error where I tell someone something from the code that turns out to be inaccurate could be catastrophic to the project goals and could also create a "deal breaker" situation if their objectives are not met, rendering every party's time and money wasted.

One of the worst case scenarios is when a requirement is given to a client and there is some disbelief in said requirement. Or, even worse, when after the requirement is told to a client and it eliminates a desire of theirs within the design, their response is that they heard from someone else that they CAN do what they wanted. This is quite frustrating. There are a lot of hacks out there, but I am certainly not one of them. I do my best to make sure my code research is at the forefront of my design effort and that it's accuracy is upheld to the best of my ability. Some people may say a lot of things just to coerce people along, but I believe in being honest and direct. Also, the codes change quite often and if someone is reciting something from memory that they should be checking for updates in a more recent version in a code, then they could possibly be at risk of giving errant or insufficient information, which is a disservice to the client and the project.

So please, clients and potential clients, I implore you... trust me, your Architect. I care most about life safety and environmental barriers and I have a professional license to protect, so I will play it straight in every aspect of the code enforcement to which I am expected to convey.

Extra, Extra!

Check out the website! Although the familiar layout is the same, we've preformed some updates to enhance the page viewing experience. We've reduced some of the image file sizes and changed out some of the older "Recent Projects" pics with newer, more recently completed project photos!

There also is now a cj architects logo icon in your web browser's URL bar and also on the title tabs for any page you're viewing on the site.

Thanks for visiting, enjoy!

Progress

These photos were taken today while on a site visit to one of my projects in Morton Grove. It is a 2-story addition, that is basically a teardown of an old house and building this new monster. The whole house is custom.

This is one of my bigger projects in a while. The total square footage is about 3300 and there are 4 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, plus two fireplaces and a modern kitchen. We put a large outdoor terrace over the garage, offering long-distance views of the adjacent neighborhood yet maintaining some sense of privacy with opaque railings. There is a mixture of brick and stone covering the outside as viewed from the street. On the interior, the vestibule opens up into a 2-story high cathedral ceiling with large windows, skylights, and a dormer all allowing tons of natural light to pour into the living spaces.

All in all it's been a great project and I cannot wait to see the finished product. I know the homeowners will be pleased. I just love seeing projects in this state so I thought I'd share it with the my readers.

10 things...

Just for fun, here are 10 things you'll never hear an architect say:

10. Wow, those construction documents were a snap to finish!

9. That plan review went off without a hitch!

8. No, it won't cost any extra to change that.

7. We finished right on time!

6. We finished right on budget!

5. I have too much free time on my hands!

4. I've never had a problem with any contractor.

3. That building was constructed precisely according to the design.

2. Getting through architecture school and obtaining licensure were a piece of cake!

1. I hate my job.

This post inspired by Doug Patt's "How to Architect" series: www.howtoarchitect.com

Ideas for "Greening" Your Project

Making your home improvement project more environmentally friendly and sustainable – thus lowering your carbon footprint - is a 3-legged process. Though each leg works harmoniously with the next, it is important to understand the individual components of each. Here are some ideas to consider:

ENERGY EFFICIENCY – (lowering energy demand, thus saving money on energy bills)

Insulation and vapor barrier as a system

(R-values to meet International Energy Conservation Code for roofs, floors and walls)

- Batts – Fiberglass, cotton, or mineral wool – used with 6mil polyethylene sheets

- Blown-In Cellulose or Fiberglass – Loose Fill (can contain recycled materials)

- Spray-on Polyurethane Foam – Yields high R-value and is its own vapor barrier ($$$)

- Rigid Foam Insulation – Installed in sheets to interior OR exterior of home

Insulate water pipes and ductwork – they conduct, transmit, and “leak” heat

Lighting

- Use Compact Fluorescent or LED bulbs for long-life and low energy consumption

- Use “zones” and dimmers to reduce wasted energy where lighting is not needed

Appliance

- High-efficiency furnace – for forced-air systems

- Tankless water heating – point-of-use or central instantaneous, gas or electric

- Use only appliances that carry an Energy-Star rating

Solar Power – photovoltaic panels to store power to supplement or replace grid power

Geo-Thermal Heat Pumps – eliminate need for high gas or electric resistance usage

- Underground water loops use the earth to heat water in winter and store heat in the summer

Radiant Floor Heating – In-floor hot water loops to radiate heat and reduce ductwork

Air-Conditioning – Select a system with a high SEER rating

Windows and Doors

- Good quality, Air-tight construction and installation – weatherstripping!

- Low Solar Heat-Gain Coefficient (SHGC) and U-value

- Insulated, Low-E coating and Argon gas filled between insulated panes

NATURAL RESOURCE CONSERVATION – (lower depletion and reduce landfill waste)

Low-flow plumbing fixtures – Conserve water demand while lowering water bills

FSC-Certified Wood – Forest Stewardship Council

Concrete with Fly-Ash – use this byproduct as a binder to reduce cement production

Gray water reuse – Reintroducing graywater back into supply

- Reduces demand on local water aquifer (oceans, lakes, rivers, and streams)

- Sources include sinks, showers, washing machines, and rainwater harvested in barrels

- Reused for non-potable uses like flushing toilets, laundry, and lawn irrigation

Renovating and Rehabbing – nothing is greener than reusing existing structures

Recycled Content – use materials with high pre- and post-consumer recycled content

Regional Materials – use products and materials that are manufactured locally to reduce the embodied energy lost in transportation

Rapidly Renewable Materials – use products and materials made from resources that can be grown, harvested, and re-grown all within a 10-year life-cycle

- i.e.: soy, cork, linoleum, bamboo, wool, cotton, straw insulation, and wheatboard

Recycle your own waste! – divert “garbage” from landfills by recycling regularly

- Participate in local government recycling programs or institute your own at home

- In construction projects, encourage tradesmen to order and install materials in such a way to generate less waste – and also to recycle their packaging, etc.

INDOOR AIR QUALITY – (promote healthier living at home)

Radon Mitigation – test your property and install a system to regularly remove radon gas

Natural and Mechanical Ventilation – promote air circulation in and out of the home

- Windows, operable skylights, ceiling fans, attic fans, exhaust fans

Proper Air and moisture barriers – reduce infiltration of allergens and pollutants

- Building paper on the exterior and polyethylene film or monolithic insulation inside

- Moisture barriers at basement floors and crawlspaces to reduce groundwater

- Waterproofing of exterior foundations at basements and crawlspaces

Insulation types – use those that do not produce and sustain airborne microorganisms

Low VOC-emitting materials and finishes

- VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) off-gassing can produce poor air quality

- Choose carpet, paint, adhesives and sealants with low VOC contents

Urea-Formaldehyde – use products free of this air pollutant (usually composite woods)

Air Filters – use filters with a high MERV rating (MERV 8 as a MINIMUM).

Carbon Monoxide Detectors – Mandatory requirement of Building Codes

- At least one installed in the home placed between 3ft and 6ft above the floor.

- Place near bedrooms and/or attached garages

These items are just a few categorical examples of basic ways to make your home more “green” and are intended to be a design guide. Consult a LEED Accredited Professional for full analysis of your home to see what options will work most thoroughly and cost effectively for your project.

© cj architects, inc. 2009

Mason-Ree

The first paragraph here is going to sound like another pet peeve post... but here it goes! I love masonry. I love the materials, the hardness, the structural capacity, the security, the versatility, the beauty, the patterns, the modularity, and even the name. The word is called masonry, pronounced mason-ree. A lot of people - sometimes within the industry and even masons - pronounce it mason-ary, like at the end it sounds like canary. No! there is no 'A' at the end of the word, thus we do not need this extra syllable. Before I turn this into a rant, I should explain that I am not trying to pick on or poke fun at anyone here - I am simply trying to spread awareness and educate the offenders so that they can stop making the mistake and we can all move on at the job site without having that quiet chuckle when someone slips up.

For those of you that know the difference and pronounce the word correctly, maybe you just want to learn a little bit about the building material. Masonry is a term that encompasses a wide range of modular building materials that start with a raw material and/or a mixture and are baked or cured to hardness - and are bonded together using mortar into the monolithic forms that we see cladding buildings today. Examples of masonry include any of a variety of bricks to concrete masonry units and even glass blocks. the difference in these subdivisions of nomenclature is all in the material and how the piece is produced. I could write a book on all the different kinds of masonry, their uses, and their construction, but I will try to keep this concise in the interests of your valuable time and bandwidth.

A brick is a smaller piece used for exterior cladding. A brick was once used as a structural product, but with the advent of stronger and quicker masonry units, it has come to be more of an aesthetic type of masonry - we call these "veneers". Bricks are made from firing red clay into a variety of modular sizes, the most common being 7-5/8" long x 3-5/8" wide x roughly 2-9/16" thick. You see these size bricks all over and they were used extensively in older urban construction as exterior bearing walls. By placing them 2 or 3 rows deep (called wythes) they could support 2 or 3 floors, with the rule of thumb ratio being one floor vertical for every wythe thick. Case in point is the Monadnock building in downtown Chicago that is an all brick skyscraper with about 6ft worth of brick wythes at street level. Today the brick veneer is backed up by stud walls and is only one wythe thick because that's all you need to see it. The irony is that bricks used to hold buildings up, but in new construction, the building supports the brick!

Another type of masonry unit is the concrete masonry unit (CMU), commonly referred to as the cinder block. This term is a little outdated though, because cinders are not commonly used anymore to make these units. They are a good utilitarian piece used for structural walls, including foundations, and also fire-separation walls because of their excellent fire-retarding ability. However, they can be and have been used as the exterior face of a building. Some utility buildings such as garages and warehouses use them for their cost savings and ability to take paint. The faces of CMUs can sometimes have patterns and clefts that are moderately attractive, so you may have seen them used for big box retail stores. CMUs are made of a concrete mixture that is cured into their familiar forms until they reach appropriate strength. They are made much larger than bricks, the most common nominal size being 8x8x16 - nominal means the approximate size of the unit plus one mortar joint added onto each dimension. CMUs come in a variety of different sizes; however, all based on need and usage.

Yet another type of masonry unit is the glass block. It is odd that this is considered masonry, but it fits the mold (no pun intended) because of its stacking ability and it is installed on union projects by a mason - meaning masons are specifically trained to correctly erect glass blocks. We all know what a glass block is, unfortunately we don't see them as much today as we did in the constructions of the 50s through the 70s. They can be clear or translucent/frosted/etched, so they can be used as a window or artistically to provide a peak at the scene beyond. They aren't really structural, so besides their own weight, they are not meant to support any additional floor or roofs, and must be used in conjunction with an appropriate structural system - they are usually used to divide spaces using the aforementioned trickery or as sculptural pieces on their own. Glass blocks are made in one of two ways - as a solid piece of glass, or as a hollow block of two halves fused together. The most typical nominal size is 8x8x4, but they too can vary, with a little more limitation than its brothers. Personally I like the look of glass block and would like to see it more widely used in modern fashion, but unfortunately due to its higher cost of building than other glass systems, it is eschewed in many contemporary building projects.

So that is a very watered down crash course on masonry construction. So please if you can find it in your hard to pronounce it correctly, you'd be doing this industry a lot of favors and would warm up this architect's lowly heart. If you want more information about masonry or have any questions, just ask in the comments!

Dream Machine

That little beauty above is my new all-in-one printer, copy, scan, fax device. I bought it and set it up yesterday and have been cranking away on the printing and copying features ever since. There is an underlying reason why I bought the machine, other than its sleekness, tabletop seating, functions, quality, and - most importantly - value.

I decided to move my operation into my home. When I started the business I had some friends in the industry who had an excess of office space. They offered electricity, high-speed internet, a desk and comfy chair, private restroom, microwave, refrigerator, and camaraderie. When it came down to it, the only one of those things I couldn't be provided with in my own home was the camaraderie. Even though I was paying a ridiculously cheap rent, it just made more sense to me to spend time here, that way I could spread out my down time and save the rent, albeit low, and put it into my own pocket.

In a few months or years, I hope that my business expands and consequently so will my need for larger office space. For now, this has been working out nicely for me and I have been really happy with my decision. Purchasing this one piece of equipment has been extremely liberating and I hope that the investment has a nice return with a lot of continued success.

Concrete

I want this blog to serve not only as a way to keep clients, colleagues and friends updated on the goings on at cj architects, but also to try to educate at the same time. For this particular post, my broad topic is to eradicate one of the most common misconceptions in the construction industry. The misconception is that the words 'concrete' and 'cement' are interchangeable, both meaning that hard, gray stuff used for buildings, pavement, and pools.

In fact, these two terms are not interchangeable. You see, cement is simply one ingredient that makes up the finished concrete product. Including Portland cement, some of the other components usually used in making concrete are water, sand, lime, and aggregate - usually limestone rock or gravel. Concrete is a concoction that was first used by the Romans for the purposes of sound and semi-permanent building.

So when you see that hard gray stuff in your basement, on the sidewalk, or in your pool, please, please do not call it cement... it is concrete. Concrete is not a product you can go buy, since it is mixture of which I have already explained. You can; however - and this is pretty typical - go buy either a bag of cement to make your own concrete, or a bag of concrete mix which contains all of the necessary components - when buying for a DIY project, you need to know the difference. These components are combined in a hopper or a ready-mix truck and then delivered in a timely fashion to the end site.

Concrete, when all of the ingredients are combined, begins its chemical reaction immediately upon mixing and thus begins to harden. It usually sets up in an hour and a half, so it is imperative to pour, finish, and begin to cure soon after it is batched. Since concrete gets harder the longer it is allowed to cure, it is typically cured for a period of one to four weeks to reach maximum strength - or at least the strength that the concrete was designed so that it can hold the loads planned to be imposed upon it. Curing is the process of keeping the concrete moist and covered through the length of the curing time it takes to reach strength.

So there is a little crash course in concrete. I also wanted to clear up the difference between concrete and cement to spread awareness and keep the two aptly separated, not only within the construction and design communities, but also in the public in general. If you have any questions please leave them in the comments and I will do my best to respond.

Facebook

CJ Architects is now on facebook! Click *here* to view our page and add us as a friend. Some extra portfolio work can be found there, in the 'Photos' section. Status updates may become a usual occurrence and we'll be sharing more photos, etc. Plus you can see who we're friends with and just stay informed at an extra layer to this blog and the website.

Thanks for visiting and checking us out!

Results

Last night I met up with a contractor in Evanston to whom I sent a marketing package last month, complete with portfolio booklet. He called last week and set up this meeting to discuss some renovation work to this house. The homeowners are new to the area and just bought this house a few months ago. Since then they have found it rather difficult to live in, so they wanted to add a master bath. I met beforehand with the contractor and he downloaded a lot of information onto me about the project and what the homeowners wanted to do. Then we went to the house so I could meet them and get a better look at the place myself.

When we arrived we took a quick look at the exterior of the home, to get better acquainted with its style and construction. One of the owners greeted us outside and ushered us inside to see the master bedroom upstairs. They have one normal-sized bathroom servicing the three bedrooms upstairs. They wanted to add the master bath where a current walk-in closet is located. It seemed like a good, easy plan... then the other owner showed up.

Upon the arrival of our second host, we continued the tour to the rear of the home. From there, a lengthy discussion was had about expanding the home out the back to accommodate more space on both the upper and main levels. Our group moved from floor to floor and from inside to outside and then back inside. We floated from room to room, talking and listening to one another. Their main issue is that they realized there wasn't quite enough house for them. The rear stair was too narrow to even get the bulk of their furniture up to the master bedroom. They just found it unlivable. We quickly realized that their project had grown to a home that will better affect their quality of life, so we expanded the scope.

I worked on a proposal for my services and fees this morning. I submitted it to the contractor shortly after (we are working as a team, so he is including my services/drawings as part of his complete package). He responded this afternoon, we discussed it and now he is preparing his part of the proposal for the homeowners' review. He will present it to them either tonight or tomorrow and will hopefully provide me with good news or at least some positive feedback thereafter. I am keeping my fingers crossed (and not getting my hopes up), but this could be a good job for me and I am looking forward to sinking my teeth into something like this again...

Net-working

Last night I went to a networking event provided by "Chicago After Work". It's really a cool setup that they have. They charge you 10$ to get into their event, which they host at a local bar or club - usually a higher-end establishment in a "hip" part of town. Last night's event was held at Luxbar just off Rush St. in the restaurant district of the Near North Side neighborhood. We had the entire 2nd floor to network and meet new contacts - mostly comprised of younger professionals and entrepreneurs.

I had a lot of fun and met a lot of new and interesting people - some of which could even help me out in the industry, and some vowed to and have already acted on that promise. I, in turn, offered to help a few people wherever I could as well and have since sent out a few emails to try to get the wheels turning.

I would like to attend a few more of these events. The organization puts them on once per month all over the city. The 10$ fee is used to not only reserve the space, but you also get your first cocktail for free (a 6$ value at some of these posh locales), plus there are servers constantly walking around serving complimentary appetizers and selling more beverages.

We'll see where this goes and if it produces any real work. For 10$; however, it is worth the investment and the return could be extraordinary. I was glad to at least have had a fun evening with some cool new people who share my ambitiousness.

Truth in Advertising

When I first got up here and started this gig, I decided that in order to get any real work I'd have to pound the pavement and get my name out there. And to me, that meant cold-calling. I have never done any real advertising before, so I knew I had to start from scratch. I decided that no one should be successful in this day and age without a website: good, bad, or indifferent. So I took the necessary steps to create one and I am proud to say that it is published and is a top search result on Google. This lead to the creation of a professional email address hosted off of the site. With the addition of a phone number and a physical street address, I was off to designing and printing business cards. I knew I couldn't just send business cards to people, that isn't flashy enough. So I decided to make marketing booklets.

I did a little research and sent these booklets out to 10 prospective companies that I thought would be good for a fresh young architect like me to collaborate with. Ten is not a very large amount of contacts, but the booklets cost a lot of money to produce, so I had to narrow down to 10 finalists from a larger list - so these were being sent to very exclusive company... haha. I sent them out about a month ago, and made follow-up calls a few days later. It's not easy to go in cold - in fact, it is sort of a pride-swallowing adventure, and I'm not exactly sure why. Regardless, I knew I had to make it happen.

I was a little discouraged when I did not get one single positive response. I actually only was able to get through to three of the companies, all of them telling me they would keep me in mind if anything came up in the future, which I guess is all I could ask for in this economy. Then it happened. Yesterday I got a call from one of the contractors to whom I sent a booklet and never got a reply. As it turns out they need some architectural work and I guess they had my marketing information handy, so they called me. I have a meeting setup to look at their project, and I am very excited about the prospect. This could turn into a long-term relationship.

You see, it does pay to advertise. If this one project turns into just one paying commission, it will pay for ALL of the marketing I have done to date - that is quite a return on investment, and it subsequently allows me to pay for more advertising to go after more work - a nice upward spiral. Plus I may have room for a little bit of a profit, but I am not going to push my luck. I'm proud to say that hard work may have paid off for me, and I hope for continued successes.

First "real" commission

I say "real" because this project is the first project I gained with the new business venture outside of any previous contacts coming into it. I have worked on a few other small things, but they all came to me via an outlet (or is it inlet?) that I had intact when I was still working for someone. Frankly, a few of my other commissions have simply been drafting work for other architects, but I'll take it!

What you're looking at here is a 3D rendering of some concept work I did for a client who wants to open a new fast, casual sushi restaurant. It's a really neat concept and I hope it takes off because if it does, I should be the go-to guy to produce the construction drawings for all of the new spaces it goes into - a nice cash cow if successful. This guy's concept is fresh and unique. I don't want to get into too many details, but basically you stand and wait while the sushi is made to order, as you the consumer designed it. This drawing is of the sushi prep area - the idea being that the sushi chefs would be "displayed" inside a "cube". The vibrant color and bulkiness really help set it apart from the rest of the space, so it becomes a focal point. The consumer can watch their creation being made and they can also see some fresh sushi pieces inside the display case built into the front of the "cube". They pick up their orders around the corner at another fun "slit" carved out of the cube form, but you'll have to visit the CJ Architects website to get a peak at that!

Like I said, I hope this one materializes for a few different reasons. I love enjoying buildings I've worked on and I'd love to grab a meal in this place. It is kind of interesting though that in my short experience as an entrepreneur that this job paid the fastest... I guess I will just have to come to learn how to manage and prepare for that kind of thing as coming with the territory...

Here we go!

Hello, everyone, and welcome to the first post on the CJ Architects blog! I will try to update this as often as possible to keep current with the world and to allow a peak inside the operation.

I have been working very diligently to get my name (and logo) passed around here in Chicago. This blog is one step in that process, but i hope that it is simply a tool for me to stay connected, release, and share information. If anyone has a topic they would like to hear about, please email me and I will try to develop and publish an appropriate post. My goal is to keep this about architecture, but i will entertain all sorts of topics and probably will want to stray away from time to time.

Thanks for reading and enjoy!